That bag of dog food you pick up every month is just one of the easy time-savers we all take for granted but it can come at a cost of questionable nutrition and exposure to toxins, for the unwary. October’s blog post is about the real trade-off for our modern-day love of convenience? As a dog or cat owner, you should be making informed choices for your pets, learning how commercial pet food is made and the reasons why multi-billion-dollar commercial pet food companies reap big profits.

Is the Canadian pet food industry regulated?

Canadian pet food manufacturers are subject to several Canadian and international regulations, as part of the Canadian Food Inspection Agency’s enhanced animal health safeguards. This makes specified risk materials illegal to feed to animals, including dogs and cats.

Pet food manufacturers must comply with the Consumer Packaging and Labelling Act, as well as the Competition Act, administered by Industry Canada (now joined with the ministries of science and technology). These regulations specify how pet foods may be marketed to consumers, including how food is named and what information must be included on pet food labels.

Members of the Pet Food Association of Canada (PFAC) also manufacture to the nutritional standards set out by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO).

Have you seen the “suitable for all life stages” claim?

Avoid any brand that makes this assertion. No pet food is suitable for all life stages. Your puppy or kitten has specific nutritional needs at this life stage. So does your adult pet and so does your senior pet. Good brands formulate their products to meet these different needs.

Splitting the label practice. Do you know how this game works?

Let’s look at the following list of ingredients you might find on your dog food package:

Meat Meal, ground corn, wheat, corn gluten meal, soybean meal, brewers rice, beet pulp, etc.

Most people would assume that meat is the main ingredient.
Corn is actually the main ingredient in the above list. Corn has simply been split into three different categories. Pet food companies want you to think that what you're buying is mostly protein when in fact, if their label reads like this example, what you’re getting is mostly corn.

Many grains in commercial pet foods contain levels of carcinogenic herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides too high for human consumption, but deemed acceptable for pets.

Do you know what pet food companies use to bulk up their products, ingredients offering little or no nutritional value?

Beet pulp, a dried residue from sugar beet under the guise of fibre. In fact, it’s mostly sugar.
Soybean meal comes from the remaining flaked material after a solvent extract has been used to pull oil from soybeans.
Powdered cellulose, comes from green plants after the cell walls have been broken down and turned into powder. It’s used to bulk up pet foods. Sugar food by-products come from the inedible remains of sugar-based food production like candy, dry-packaged drinks, dried gelatin mixes, etc. Used to add calories and taste enhancement.

Are you aware of what chemicals and dyes to watch out for on the list of ingredients?

Avoid all food and treats that contain the following:

BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole) is a waxy substance used mainly as a preservative in food. Its antioxidant property prevents rancidification and the resulting strong odor. It has carcinogenic properties.

BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) is a food additive used as a preservative to maintain freshness and prevent spoiling. Prevents vegetable oils from going rancid. Suspected of causing cancerous tumors and liver issues in dogs.

Ethoxyquin, used as a food preservative to stop the rancidity of fats and prevent color loss in orange pigments. There is some research suggesting that Ethoxyguin in pet foods, over time, can lead to an elevation in liver enzymes.

Red 40 can trigger hypersensitivity reactions to the food.
Yellow 5 & 6 can trigger hypersensitivity reactions to the food and may be contaminated with several cancer-causing chemicals.
PG (Propylene Glycol), is an approved food additive for dogs and sugar gliders. It has the dubious honour of being named the American Contact Dermatitis Society’s Allergen of the year 2018.

Dye 4-MIE or Caramel Colouring, may resemble real caramel but that is where the similarity ends. Some types of this artificial colouring contain a potentially carcinogenic chemical called 4-methylimidazole (4-MeI) used to colour the product and make it pleasing to human eyes. It’s a known animal carcinogen.
(from the WebMD archives)

Some pet owners don't want to buy food that contains the synthetic preservatives BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), or Ethoxyquin. These preservatives stop fats from turning rancid and can keep dry dog food fresh for about a year. Their safety has been questioned by some consumers and scientists. The FDA says they’re safe at the level used in dog food.

You’re the pet owner, ultimately it’s your decision how you feel about the data.

It should be noted that the better dog food brands no longer use BHA, BHT, or Ethoxyquin, opting instead for natural preservatives like tocopherols (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), citric acid, and rosemary. These new preservatives not only preserve but actually offer some additional nutrition to the food.

Do you understand the definition of meat on dog food packaging?

AAFCO definitions:

MEAT: the clean flesh obtained from slaughtered mammals. This tissue includes muscle, tongue, diaphragm, heart, and esophagus. It can also include the fat, skin, sinew, nerve, and blood vessels that would be part of the underlying flesh.

MEAT MEAL: the rendered product from mammal tissue without blood, hair, hoof, hide, trimmings, manure, stomach, and rumen contents (small amounts are unavoidable).

POULTRY-BY-PRODUCT MEAL: The ground, rendered, clean parts of slaughtered poultry, including necks, feet, eggs, and intestines. This excludes feathers (small amounts unavoidable).

POULTRY BY-PRODUCT: Can include non-rendered clean parts of slaughtered poultry (head, feet, and viscera, free of fecal content and foreign matter (small amounts unavoidable).

FISH MEAL: A rendering residue from a fish processing plant. Fish meal might include heads, tails, insides, and blood. It is generally higher in protein. It is thought to be higher in protein quality than meat meal and bone meal. Defined by AAFCO as the clean, dried, ground tissue of undecomposed whole fish and/or fish cuttings, with our without oil extraction.

Are you aware of the more questionable sources of protein AAFCO allows in pet food?

Hydrolyzed hair which is treated hair from cattle, horses and pigs or other slaughtered animals.

Dried poultry waste which includes straw and wood shavings, obtained from factory farming operations.

Dried swine waste which includes straw, wood shavings and bedding material, usually coming from large hog operations.

Do you know what happens during the rendering process?

Pre-rendering: Along with clean flesh, slaughterhouses also provide renderers with the leftovers of animals not fit for human consumption. Before shipping to the rendering plant, the materials are treated with a denaturing agent (in Canada this agent is called Birkolene B) the mystery substance that breaks down the natural structure of the protein in order to destroy disease agents.

What is a rendering plant? It's a business that obtains protein from all kinds of sources (slaughterhouses, roadkill, dead zoo animals, dead livestock, restaurants, grocery store cast-offs and can also include euthanized cats and dogs, to create the base ingredient for pet food industry products.

What happens at a rendering plant? Machines slowly grind the material up in huge vats. The contents are then cooked between 220°F and 270°F, for 20 minutes to an hour. Then the mixture is spun at high speed so that the grease rises to the top and is then removed. This grease becomes a partial source of animal fat in most pet foods. Fats are also sourced from restaurants, the old stuff no longer used for human consumption and likely rancid.

This grease or rendered fat is something like tallow. Think of what’s left in your pan after you cook bacon.

After the grease is removed, the remaining material is dried. Meat Meal, and Meat and Bone Meal are the end product of the rendering process. This material is then purchased by pet food manufacturers. To this protein material, vitamins, minerals and preservatives are then added to make the final pet food.

Do you understand the difference between “Manufactured by” and “Manufactured for”?

Manufactured by: is a statement that identifies the company that manufactured the food and is responsible for its quality and safety.

Manufactured for: This means the brand has no actual manufacturing capability and uses a “co-packer” (a secondary company that actually manufactures the food) to produce the product.

Beware of the claim “Made in Canada” or "the USA” This statement only applies to where the food is put together and packaged, not where the company gets their base ingredients. The source for rendered protein can originate anywhere on the globe.

Is your dog a domesticated version of the wolf when it comes to nutritional requirements?

NO, and don’t let the packaging on dog food bags persuade you otherwise. Dogs have been evolving with us for well over 10,000 years. For the most part, they’ve been eating what we’ve been eating, leaving behind a predominantly meat, bone, and skin diet. Genetically dogs have adapted to be able to assimilate and digest starches. Something a wolf cannot digest. Dogs have up to 30 copies of the gene that makes amylase, a protein that starts the breakdown process of starch in the intestines. Wolves have only two copies of this gene. And, the multiple genes for amylase are twenty-eight times more active in dogs, meaning that dogs are much better at digesting starches than wolves.

Another gene that codes for an additional enzyme, called maltase, is also important for the digestion of starch and is found to be longer in dogs than wolves. This longer form is also found in herbivores like cows and rabbits.

Long story short, dogs have adapted to what we eat. Dogs thrive on a diet very similar to the balanced version of our own nutritional requirements.

How does the raw food diet compare to dry kibble and/or canned dog food?

If carried out properly, raw can be a very healthy alternative to standard commercial dog food.

There are more options now for feeding raw. For instance, there are now commercial forms of raw food for pets which cuts down on time and regimented prep process if you are providing raw to your dog, completely from scratch; yes, commercial formulations which leads us right back to the question, “What’s in the bag?”. I need to do more research on this subject to properly comment. It’s a topic I’ll get back to in a future blog post.

Raw is not for everyone. You need to be able to stick to its strict requirements. There are certain health risks for humans if food is not handled properly. Dogs can shed certain bacteria, harmful to humans, while not posing any risk or providing telltale symptoms, in healthy animals. Raw is also not the best choice for puppies, older dogs, or dogs whose immune systems are no longer strong.

Are there options when it comes to what you feed your dog?

Yes, you can make your own dog food at home as long as you’re using vet-approved recipes and including bone and mineral supplements. Getting the bone and mineral ratios right, is a bit complicated. It’s better to buy the supplements and add them to the recipes. If you are going to try this route it’s important to stick to the recipes with no substitutions.

Making dog food at home is a bit more expensive than buying good quality commercial dog food, more so for larger dogs. And it can be time-consuming. You can feed half home-cooked/half commercial meals. Having done the home-cooked regime for a year, I eventually moved to the half/half compromise with the best commercial brand I could find.

NOTE: Cat food is a bit more difficult to make in house since there are significant differences in their nutritional requirements. That's why it's not a good idea to feed your cat and dog the same pet food. Cats are obligate carnivores requiring much higher levels of meat, whereas dogs are omnivores requiring a higher level of fibre than their feline counterparts.

Interested in learning more?

There’s simply too much highly valuable information to include in a blog post so I encourage you to explore this topic in much greater depth. To do this you might start with the following books:

1) Dog Food Logic, Making Smart Decisions for Your Dog in an Age of too Many Choices, by Linda P. Case, M.S.
2) The Allergic Pet, Holistic Solutions to End the Allergy Epidemic in Our Dogs and Cats, by Deva Khalsa, VMD
3) Food Pets Die For, Shocking Facts about Pet Food, by Ann N. Martin, International Authority on Pet Food

Check THE DOG BLOG again for more tips on training and canine well-being.

 

When choosing a puppy it’s very important to first assess your own lifestyle and stage of life. Ask yourself, can you adequately meet that puppy’s needs, as an adult dog, and for the next 10 to 15 years? If you’re planning to adopt a medium to large breed puppy and you won’t have the time to provide them with at least three to four kilometers a day of exercise, from adolescence and beyond, then it’s time to reconsider your choice.

Pet owners often incorrectly identify behavioral issues with lack of training. And while training is important, in fact, the most pressing problem is usually a lack of exercise, especially for medium to large dogs. Without sufficient exercise, dogs find it very difficult to sit still and focus on learning new skills.

Training will not effectively counteract problematic behaviors related to boredom. Exercise will greatly reduce and often eliminate those unwanted behaviors such as hyperactivity, jumping on people, ignoring their owners, and reactivity to other dogs.

Considerations for some of today’s more popular breeds

Goldendoodles are by far the most popular breed coming into my classroom. At three to four months they're highly receptive to training, great with people, love to be petted, and rarely if ever exhibit reactivity to other dogs. They're a good choice for families, however, without a great deal of exercise, especially as adolescents, they lack focus during training, bark excessively, and can be difficult to control, especially males. Most vets prefer not to neuter larger male doodles until closer to 12 to 14 months so you’ll need to counter those teenage difficulties with additional exercise or doggy daycare. Gentle leaders are also a good idea, at least through their teen phase, to address a high level of impulsivity. The Good Boy brand is a great choice, as per the link provided. By about 15 months and post neutering/spaying, Goldendoodles generally settle into maturity with much better compliance and focus.

 

Poodles come in various sizes, Standard (up to 80 lbs), Miniature (up to 20 lbs), Toy (up to 9 lbs), and Tea Cup (up to 7 lbs). I’ve worked with them all but the smaller poodles are the more popular variations. Poodles (mixed or purebred) are still one of the most popular breeds due to their intelligence, exceptional trainability, and easy-going personality. Poodles are a very athletic dog no matter their size (except perhaps for the Tea Cup version) so they should be given a few long walks per day as well as a lively game of fetch or frisbee. Standard poodles exhibit the same adolescent challenges as Golden Doodles so plenty of exercise for them is essential.

 

Australian Shepherds are a very popular breed these days. While highly responsive to training they also require a great deal of exercise to be able to focus and learn new skills. They're great with people but should have early socialization with other dogs to counter some reactivity. This breed is best suited for adults who understand the innate traits of a herding dog, and want a companion with a real love of work and exercise. Due to their herding tendencies, Aussie Shepherds are easily triggered to nip and drive which is why you must be firm with them around young children and institute the ‘absolutely no chasing games’ policy.

 

 

Siberian Huskies perform very well in training when provided with enough exercise. Unlike Goldendoodles, they're not the biggest fan of being petted and handled, especially from visitors they don't know, and they would much prefer to be outside, investigating the world at large. Lack of cognitive stimulation and exercise leads them to unwanted behaviors such as jumping up, digging, and chewing. Huskies can be somewhat aloof around other dogs and can be susceptible to resource guarding so a high degree of socialization as younger puppies is very important. Provide them with at least three to four kilometers a day of exercise to promote calm, focused house manners. 

 

Shih Tzus are highly receptive to training if their owners would only stop pampering them and set the same expectations they would for a larger dog. Shih Tzus love people and other dogs, and they don’t require a lot of exercise. They make wonderful companions no matter the household, especially for seniors. They do tend to jump up so extra attention should be given to their greeting protocols.

 

 

Havanese are one of the most trainable dog breeds I’ve had the pleasure to work with. They show little reactivity to other dogs, they love people and are generally very quiet. Havanese dogs live to learn new skills. They excel at both obedience and trick training, in addition, they also don’t require a lot of exercise. They make wonderful companions no matter the household, from toddlers to seniors.

 

Olde English Bulldogs are an American breed developed in the early 1970s, to recreate a dog with the traits of the original 18th-century bull-baiting canine. They're taller and slimmer than the British Bulldog, with a snout more similar to a Boxer.

I’ve had the pleasure of training a few of these dogs and was pleasantly surprised by their calm, sweet nature. They co-exist very well with both people and other dogs, and they really love to learn new skills. While they don’t seem to suffer from hyperactivity, they are extremely strong. Harnesses are not a good idea with these dogs. Alternating between a wide collar and a gentle leader on walks, helps to bring about good walking habits until they reach maturity. Best suited to a home with adults, who are willing and able to manage their strength. Not suitable for seniors.

 

Labrador Retrievers are in my opinion, one of today’s great tragedies when it comes to improper consideration of lifestyle. The Labrador Retriever may be an adorable puppy at three months, but by seven to eight months, without adequate exercise, they can be uncontrollable and suffer from severe levels of hyperactivity. At their best they're a highly independent dog with a love of field and bush, moving in large sweeping circles, to check in with their owners throughout the course of a walk. Genetically this is what they were built to do, a pattern of interaction bred into them for retrieving purposes. The best successes I’ve had with this breed in my classroom, are with pet owners who walk their dogs four to seven kilometers a day. With this level of activity, the dogs are biddable, can adequately focus, and pick up all the required skills of obedience. Not suitable for seniors or anyone not willing or able to provide them with a high degree of exercise. Note that these dogs do not reach maturity until closer to three years old and are very strong by eight to nine months of age.

 

 

Boston Terriers are highly energetic and generally get along well with people and other dogs. They excel at both obedience and trick training. Given their terrier nature, it’s a good idea to get started on their training early, to satisfy their drive for interaction and cognitive stimulation. A forty-five to sixty-minute walk per day is adequate for them as long as you also spend a bit of time playing with them indoors.

 

 

Miniature Schnauzers are a good choice for most households. They're game, sharp little dogs with a fairly high energy level. An hour per day of exercise is usually sufficient. They socialize well with both people and other dogs. They pick up both obedience and trick training skills with relative ease.

 

French Bulldogs are fun and easygoing little dogs. Bear in mind that potty training can take a little longer with them so it’s important to set a very consistent toileting schedule, perhaps in a household where someone is working from home through their puppy stage. They aren’t terribly partial to formal obedience but their good nature tends to balance things out, on the whole. French bulldogs can develop a habit of pulling if no walking skills have been instilled in their exercise routines, so maybe skip the trick training and put your efforts into a few fundamental skills like sit, stay, and loose leash walking. Several short walks throughout the day are recommended for French Bulldogs as they can overheat easily and they're susceptible to breathing stress due to their shortened snout. Cumulatively an hour per day of exercise is fine for them. They love people and usually socialize well with other dogs. They make a good choice for most households, from young families to seniors.

In conclusion, there is a dog for every household: apartment dwellers, single people of any age, and families. So take the time to consider your 'lifestyle profile'. Other considerations would be how much space you have to offer a dog, grooming costs for specific breeds, and what medical issues you might encounter depending on the breed. The cost for food and basic vet fees will also vary considerably, pound for pound, based on the dog you choose. 

 THE DOG BLOG is a great resource for tips on training and canine well-being. Got questions or a topic in mind? Let me know via the comments box. I would love to hear from you.

Okay, the new year’s lockdown is finally over and training has resumed once again. Rather alarmingly, after two months of growth, most of my January puppies coming back, are now approaching adolescence. They’re bigger, stronger, and much more independent so leash skills are now critical. It’s time to talk about prey drive and how it’s going to affect your walking experience.

One common complaint I hear is “Why is my dog pulling me off my feet?” We’re having a great walk, then, without warning, they’re dragging me behind them, in pursuit of a squirrel, rabbit, birds, whatever moves.”

Another question I hear is “When can I walk my dog off-leash”.

The answer to both these questions depends on a number of factors: What is the breed of your dog, is your dog mature, fixed, well past adolescence, does your dog have a SOLID recall, do you live in a rural or urban environment…

Prey drive is the biggest reason for dogs leaving our side. Dog’s are instinctively driven to make chase, whether it’s prey or a fast-moving object, i.e. cars, cyclists, running children, etc. Stalking prey is both an instinctive and learned mechanism. It can be triggered by hunger if the dog is feral, but normally it’s simply the love of the chase that flips the switch.

Prey drive occurs in dogs to varying degrees
All dogs will chase prey or moving objects but in some breeds, specific elements of this predatory behaviour have been accentuated through genetic manipulation. Retrievers retrieve, pointers point, herding breeds stalk, circle and drive, terriers pursue with single-minded determination.

In general, dogs with a very strong prey drive are sight hounds as in greyhounds, guard dogs as in Great Danes, herding breeds, northern breeds (such as Huskies), terriers, and scent hounds (only when chasing an intended target, less so with simple movement).

A case in point: The Jack Russell Terrier. Prey aggression was specifically cultivated in terriers to pursue prey fearlessly, relentlessly, and lethally. Jack’s are not lap dogs. They are a very high-energy, determined hunting breed, not recommended as a first dog, or for families with young children, though many people adopt a Jack without understanding their nature. This is a breed that should never be off-leash.

A few breeds with less evident prey drive: Maltese, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Havanese, Bichon Frise, Golden Retrievers, and Vizslas (strangely enough given the fact that a Vizsla is a hunting breed)

To put it simply, there are really just two types of dogs

1) Those that have been bred to be genetically biddable (driven to focus on you, all the rest is just interference). A Havanese for example.

2) Most other dogs (driven by what's happening in the environment and you are the distraction). Hunting breeds for example.

Behavioural patterns related to prey drive (which can become more serious at a later stage) are often developed in play and perfected as early as six weeks: Stalking, intense staring (eye stalking), the “attack”, the grab-bite, and resource guarding

Both of these dogs are exhibiting stalking behaviour, intense focus, crouch, tense posture, all in preparation to pounce

 

A puppy’s inclination to chase movement is both innate and learned. Therefore it’s important that your puppy is not picking up the habit from an older household canine.

Your dog or puppy may not as yet shown an interest in prey but never underestimate how fast mood transfer can happen from one dog to another. The habit of stalking prey is simply picked up by imitation. Nip it in the bud. Modifying highly developed prey drive in an adult dog is not something you’re going to be able to reverse.

Predatory behaviour follows a consistent instinctual sequence
• locating prey by sight (triggered by movement) then sound, then smell
• sighting the prey with orientation posture
• stalking the prey
• chasing/or driving as in herding breeds
• attacking
• killing/ dissecting and eating or burying

Teach your dog alternatives to chasing and prey behaviour
Completely eliminating a dog’s true nature is a pipe dream. So give that notion up right now. It’s up to you to provide months of consistent, solid, leash training, and building some of your own management skills into the walking routine. If you’ve chosen a breed with a naturally high prey drive, get used to the reality that you may never be able to safely walk him off leash (in this case a nearby fenced-in dog park might be your better option).

Pro-act versus react, to counter chase and predation behaviour
Head the behaviour off at first indication, versus waiting for the dog to be in full-on drive mode. Give him something to do until the distraction is gone. Keeping an eye on your dog’s body language is key. You want to act in the first seconds of him orienting to the subject for which he is about to give chase. Keep some high-value rewards in your pocket. The whole predatory instinct to chase has the end goal of food. By circumventing this drive and providing the end goal yourself, you are effectively shutting down the initial trigger.

I would ask for a sit first, as soon as he starts to orient to potential prey. Then praise and reward. Keep him focused on you and the reward,s as you move him farther away and on, in another direction. This tactic also works with dog-to-dog aggression but you must act in the moment just before your dog starts to react.

Make sure food rewards are high value and really yummy
A few pieces of kibble just aren’t going to do it. Small pieces of cooked chicken breast or beef will. Initially lure to get the dog refocused with a specific cue such as “watch me”. Praise highly if he turns to you and away from either the prey or the other dog. Once he gets the idea that it’s more rewarding to reorient to you, ensure that he’s only getting the reward for actions correctly performed. Then, for future walks make the reward variable, i.e. food sometimes (diverse and yummy), praise sometimes, and not predictable. Variable and intermittent rewards are the most motivating.

Any time your dog has shown amazing self-control. Give him the “Jackpot”, i.e. lots of his favorite reward, one right after the other, so the taste lasts longer.

Keep a journal to identify problematic scenarios
Keep a training diary and record when predatory behaviour or triggers occur. This way you can create modifying strategies, to try for the next time.

Check your own body language
Stay calm, relaxed, and neutral. Dogs take their cue from us. If we tense up and pull the leash back every time someone approaches or a rabbit pops up on someone’s front yard, we are actually signaling to the dog that prey might be nearby.

If you constantly appear to be looking out for things the dog might go after, the dog thinks you are searching for prey.
Use the proper tone of voice. Remain calm. If you call your dog in a loud flustered voice, he’ll misinterpret the communication as something threatening or exciting going on.

The “Psst” Strategy
On the next walk vocalize a quiet “Psst” and see if your dog turns to you. If he does, praise and reward. Dogs are hard-wired to listen for low, rustling sounds that prey might make, so use this to your advantage.

NOTE: Ensure your dog is getting lots of “sniff” time. As long as they’re not pulling on the leash, they should be allowed as much of their normal canine pleasures as possible.

Active walking makes for a much more successful walking experience
It’s a long-held, and odd belief, that a dog should work to please us, just for the sake of pleasing us, with no tangible reward. Why should they? It’s not how they view the relationship. In my experience dogs are motivated by two things, food and fun. If you can creatively combine the two, you’ve got one hefty tool for getting your dog to buy into your training program and your preferred walking routine.

Two people on walks generally communicate by talking. A dog’s communication is mostly through eye contact and touch. They are looking for more than time to zone out and contemplate the state of the world. Walking is probably the most exciting gig going in their lives so make it fun for them or they’ll find their own fun (rabbits to pursue, other dogs to challenge, cyclists to chase…you get the picture).

Use the walk to engage with your dog in a fun and active way
Use the time for training opportunities with a nice reward for proper compliance. Ask your dog for a sit as you reach each curb. Allow him to move six feet away and then recall him for a nice reward of food or praise. Make eye contact with him from time to time.

Give him a sniff challenge if you’re fast. Hide a treat under some bushes and ask him to go find it.

Consider where you take your dog for a walk, including the time of day. Most prey animals are active at dusk and dawn. Tracks are freshest and most distracting in the morning.

Vary the walking route
Dog’s get bored of the same route and then seek out some fun and entertainment of their own. If the route is unfamiliar they’ll be more likely to stay closer to you for reassurance.

Mark the moment your dog orients to you first, when he or she spots prey. It’s the defining proof of effective training and a solidly forged partnership.

THE DOG BLOG is a great resource for tips on training and canine well-being. Got questions or a topic in mind? Let me know via the comments box. I would love to hear from you.

Additional Resources:

1) Chase! Managing Your Dog’s Predatory Instincts, by Clarissa von Reinhardt

 

 

Okay, so January 2021 didn’t begin as we might have hoped given COVID-19 and the Ontario provincial lockdown. And while you may have a number of weeks to go before training starts, there’s a lot you can do to make your wait productive. Let’s use these homebound weeks of January to prep the pups for a spectacular classroom experience when the doors open up again.

Here’s your January homework

Find your level below:

•  For those of you starting my Puppy or Beginner classes
•  For those of you starting my Intermediate classes
•  For those of you starting my Advanced classes

NOTE: Remember that young puppies have a very limited attention span so plan on maybe two, five minutes sessions per day. That will keep it fun and interesting for them.

For those of you starting my Puppy or Beginner classes

Potty training 101. Set your new puppy up for success

Potty training your puppy isn’t just about keeping the carpets clean. It’s also about developing the foundation of how you and your new companion will work together, for many years to come.

It will take observation, patience, commitment, and lots of consistency, on your part. The better you are at keeping to a schedule for feeding and toileting, the faster and more consistent your new pup will get at letting you know when it's time to "go".

Here’s what you need to know about potty training: https://bit.ly/37NULxs

Get your puppy started on clicker training

It’s fast and fun for both of you. If you have a clicker already, there’s no time like the present.

**If you don’t already have one and would like to start on clicker training, email me. I have a supply at home and can mail one to you for a nominal fee. (This offer's only available for students who have already signed up and paid for my training classes.)

If I could provide only one piece of advice when it comes to training it would be to start using a clicker as soon as you bring your puppy home. Developing the clicker association even at six or eight weeks of age is not too early. Once your pup is a little older, his or her more formal skills such as walking on a leash, and recall, will already be partially developed. Adult dogs can learn this system of communication with ease as well. Clicker training (otherwise known as the mark and reward system) is used to signal success the instant your dog performs correctly.

The clicker tool has a great advantage over human speech because a dog’s central nervous system can process the click many times faster than it can process a word. A spoken word must be recognized and interpreted before the dog understands that a behaviour is being marked. A click is processed instantly. It’s thought that a click goes directly to the instinctive, reflexive part of a dog's brain (the amygdala) while a word is processed in the cortex (the thinking part of the brain), which takes longer.

Once a dog is conditioned to a clicker, he will respond “reflexively” without having to stop and think about it. I’ve watched the effectiveness of clicker training over the past two years which was especially gratifying, to witness during my recent Click-A-Trick class.

Here's how you develop your puppy's clicker skills: https://bit.ly/2KsSQ8X

Teach your dog or puppy the "watch me" cue

Training your dog to “pay attention” to you is a foundation behaviour that should be taught right from the start. It’s simple, gain your dog’s attention by placing a small treat between two fingers and literally lure his gaze up to your nose or your temple. When he looks at you, reward him with the treat and praise. Repeat a few times a day, in the early days, until you have quick and solid consistency. Over time you can fade out the treat while keeping the hand and verbal cue, and increasing the duration of focus.

Here are your pointers to teach the "watch me" cue: https://bit.ly/3psOyNI     

Learn the art of Loose Leash walking

One of the biggest reasons people sign up for dog training is to stop their dogs from pulling on the leash. First day of class, more often than not, students bring (or drag) the dogs in, sit down, and proceed to wind the leash up around their arm. It's an attempt to force good behaviour and silence. What it actually creates is anxiety, reactivity, and...guess what? Pulling.

Now's the time to take a good hard look at our relationship with the leash, why we continue to pull, and what we can do to break our own bad habits.

Why people pull

•  A person pulls on the leash to attempt to teach their dog to walk beside them
•  A person pulls on the leash to gain the dog’s attention
•  A person pulls on the leash to stop the dog from jumping on a visitor
•  A person pulls on the leash to attempt to correct their dog’s inappropriate behaviour, because they feel the dog is embarrassing them
•  A person pulls on the leash because they’ve been doing it for so long they do it on reflex, even when unnecessary

Why dogs pull

• A dog pulls because when he does, you follow him, and forward progress can be made

• A dog pulls because you’ve tried to teach her to walk closer to you by yanking her backward. When you jerk the leash it momentarily goes slack, followed by that hard, painful jerk. So now by association, the dog expects the pain will instantly follow, as soon as the leash loosens up. In essence, you’ve actually conditioned her to constantly pull, to avoid the painful jerk

• A dog pulls when you use an extendable leash (a Flexi) which is designed to always be taut so even if the dog tries to walk with a slack leash, he can’t and therefore gives up trying. Not only is the leash always taut but it varies in length (sometimes three feet, sometimes 15 feet) so the dog never learns what a consistent working distance means

• A dog pulls when you are frustrated and sometimes yell, making her much less willing to stay closer to you and engage with you. Your frustration stresses her out. The more stressed she is the more erratic and reactive she will be on a walk. Expect that teaching a dog to walk on a slack leash does not happen overnight. It’s going to take a few months of teamwork. Take a pocket full of Cheerios or something he or she likes with you, every time you go out. Make staying around you, fun and worthwhile

Here’s how to get started on leash skills:  https://bit.ly/3pjCtKq  

For those of you who are starting my Intermediate classes

Clicker refresher

I would like to see a high level of responsiveness to the clicker by the time class starts for you and your dog. Anyone starting my Intermediate classes, should already have a clicker.

**If you don’t already have one and would like to start on clicker training, email me. I have a supply at home and can mail one to you for a nominal fee. (This offer's only available for students who have already signed up and paid for my training classes.)

Clicker training (otherwise known as the mark and reward system) is used to create a fast and reliable association between your command and when your dog's performed as requested. The clicker tool has a great advantage over human speech because a dog’s central nervous system can process the click many times faster than it can process a word. A spoken word must be recognized and interpreted before the dog understands that a behaviour is being marked. A click is processed instantly. It’s thought that a click goes directly to the instinctive, reflexive part of a dog's brain (the amygdala) while a word is processed in the cortex (the thinking part of the brain), which takes longer.

I’ve watched the effectiveness of clicker training over the past two years and it was especially gratifying to witness during my recent Click-A-Trick class.

Need the refresher? Find it here: https://bit.ly/2KsSQ8X

Start some 4D training skills (distance, duration, diversity distraction)

• Increase the distance and duration of your “waits and stays”
• Try some “stay” cues while dropping a bag near your dog. Aim at having your puppy hold position until you release him
• Practice your “stay” cue while another family member rings the doorbell or knocks on the door
• Practice your threshold “waits and stays” (dog in one room, you in another, doorway in between)
• Get out there and really master the art of loose leash walking

Work on fading the lure

•  Never allow the dog to see the reward. By now it should be out of sight until you get the compliance you are after
•  Randomize using different types of rewards and ask the dog to provide more than one cue before receiving rewards
•  Ask for a much longer period of duration before offering a reward

Actively incorporate the release cue

If you want greater compliance with duration and through distraction, you'll need to really enforce the release cue. Ensure your puppy holds its position until he or she hears either the clicker or your verbal release cue.

For those of you who are starting my Advanced classes

Let’s do a refresher of the 4D training skills (distance, duration, diversity distraction)

•  Increase the distance and duration of your “waits and stays”
•  Try some “stay” cue’s while, dropping a bag near your dog. Aim at having your puppy hold position until you release him
•  Practice your “stay” cue while another family member rings the doorbell or knocks on the door
•  Practice your threshold “waits and stays” (dog in one room, you in another, doorway in between)
•  Get out there and really master the art of loose leash walking

Move leash skills to successful combinations of loose leash walking and healing

By now you and your dog should have a fairly comfortable walking routine. Work on keeping your dog generally in that magic 3’ by 3’ circle on your left side, upon your request. Do allow for sniff time along the way. That’s only fair, however, ask your dog for some good solid stretches of loose leash walking and healing as well. I like to allow the dog more freedom in the first half of the walk, then incorporate active walking skills on the way home.

Practice the “heel and switch” cue until it’s smooth and happens upon request—and without immediate reward.

Fading the lure

•  Never allow the dog to see the reward. By now it should be out of sight until you get the compliance you are after
•  Randomize using different types of rewards and ask the dog to provide more than one cue before receiving rewards
•  Ask for a much longer period of duration before offering a reward

Incorporate the “Leave it” cue with the 4D’s from Intermediate level

•  Ask your dog to sit, place a food item on the floor a few feet in front of him and tell him to “leave it”
•  Work on moving farther away from him with his full compliance
•  See if you can move out of his sight and back again with the item still in place
•  Start this exercise where the dog is only given a food reward intermittently. Move toward a praise reward

NOTE: Remember that your dog should never be rewarded with the item on the floor. As you return to him, scoop it up and discard it. Reward him with something either from your pocket or from behind your back…and eventually, this cue should be rewarded by praise only.

Have fun with the homework and I'll see you all, very soon.

THE DOG BLOG is a great resource for tips on training and canine well being. Got questions or a topic in mind? Let me know via the comments box. I would love to hear from you.