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Okay, the new year’s lockdown is finally over and training has resumed once again. Rather alarmingly, after two months of growth, most of my January puppies coming back, are now approaching adolescence. They’re bigger, stronger, and much more independent so leash skills are now critical. It’s time to talk about prey drive and how it’s going to affect your walking experience.

One common complaint I hear is “Why is my dog pulling me off my feet?” We’re having a great walk, then, without warning, they’re dragging me behind them, in pursuit of a squirrel, rabbit, birds, whatever moves.”

Another question I hear is “When can I walk my dog off-leash”.

The answer to both these questions depends on a number of factors: What is the breed of your dog, is your dog mature, fixed, well past adolescence, does your dog have a SOLID recall, do you live in a rural or urban environment…

Prey drive is the biggest reason for dogs leaving our side. Dog’s are instinctively driven to make chase, whether it’s prey or a fast-moving object, i.e. cars, cyclists, running children, etc. Stalking prey is both an instinctive and learned mechanism. It can be triggered by hunger if the dog is feral, but normally it’s simply the love of the chase that flips the switch.

Prey drive occurs in dogs to varying degrees
All dogs will chase prey or moving objects but in some breeds, specific elements of this predatory behaviour have been accentuated through genetic manipulation. Retrievers retrieve, pointers point, herding breeds stalk, circle and drive, terriers pursue with single-minded determination.

In general, dogs with a very strong prey drive are sight hounds as in greyhounds, guard dogs as in Great Danes, herding breeds, northern breeds (such as Huskies), terriers, and scent hounds (only when chasing an intended target, less so with simple movement).

A case in point: The Jack Russell Terrier. Prey aggression was specifically cultivated in terriers to pursue prey fearlessly, relentlessly, and lethally. Jack’s are not lap dogs. They are a very high-energy, determined hunting breed, not recommended as a first dog, or for families with young children, though many people adopt a Jack without understanding their nature. This is a breed that should never be off-leash.

A few breeds with less evident prey drive: Maltese, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Havanese, Bichon Frise, Golden Retrievers, and Vizslas (strangely enough given the fact that a Vizsla is a hunting breed)

To put it simply, there are really just two types of dogs

1) Those that have been bred to be genetically biddable (driven to focus on you, all the rest is just interference). A Havanese for example.

2) Most other dogs (driven by what's happening in the environment and you are the distraction). Hunting breeds for example.

Behavioural patterns related to prey drive (which can become more serious at a later stage) are often developed in play and perfected as early as six weeks: Stalking, intense staring (eye stalking), the “attack”, the grab-bite, and resource guarding

Both of these dogs are exhibiting stalking behaviour, intense focus, crouch, tense posture, all in preparation to pounce

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A puppy’s inclination to chase movement is both innate and learned. Therefore it’s important that your puppy is not picking up the habit from an older household canine.

Your dog or puppy may not as yet shown an interest in prey but never underestimate how fast mood transfer can happen from one dog to another. The habit of stalking prey is simply picked up by imitation. Nip it in the bud. Modifying highly developed prey drive in an adult dog is not something you’re going to be able to reverse.

Predatory behaviour follows a consistent instinctual sequence
• locating prey by sight (triggered by movement) then sound, then smell
• sighting the prey with orientation posture
• stalking the prey
• chasing/or driving as in herding breeds
• attacking
• killing/ dissecting and eating or burying

Teach your dog alternatives to chasing and prey behaviour
Completely eliminating a dog’s true nature is a pipe dream. So give that notion up right now. It’s up to you to provide months of consistent, solid, leash training, and building some of your own management skills into the walking routine. If you’ve chosen a breed with a naturally high prey drive, get used to the reality that you may never be able to safely walk him off leash (in this case a nearby fenced-in dog park might be your better option).

Pro-act versus react, to counter chase and predation behaviour
Head the behaviour off at first indication, versus waiting for the dog to be in full-on drive mode. Give him something to do until the distraction is gone. Keeping an eye on your dog’s body language is key. You want to act in the first seconds of him orienting to the subject for which he is about to give chase. Keep some high-value rewards in your pocket. The whole predatory instinct to chase has the end goal of food. By circumventing this drive and providing the end goal yourself, you are effectively shutting down the initial trigger.

I would ask for a sit first, as soon as he starts to orient to potential prey. Then praise and reward. Keep him focused on you and the reward,s as you move him farther away and on, in another direction. This tactic also works with dog-to-dog aggression but you must act in the moment just before your dog starts to react.

Make sure food rewards are high value and really yummy
A few pieces of kibble just aren’t going to do it. Small pieces of cooked chicken breast or beef will. Initially lure to get the dog refocused with a specific cue such as “watch me”. Praise highly if he turns to you and away from either the prey or the other dog. Once he gets the idea that it’s more rewarding to reorient to you, ensure that he’s only getting the reward for actions correctly performed. Then, for future walks make the reward variable, i.e. food sometimes (diverse and yummy), praise sometimes, and not predictable. Variable and intermittent rewards are the most motivating.

Any time your dog has shown amazing self-control. Give him the “Jackpot”, i.e. lots of his favorite reward, one right after the other, so the taste lasts longer.

Keep a journal to identify problematic scenarios
Keep a training diary and record when predatory behaviour or triggers occur. This way you can create modifying strategies, to try for the next time.

Check your own body language
Stay calm, relaxed, and neutral. Dogs take their cue from us. If we tense up and pull the leash back every time someone approaches or a rabbit pops up on someone’s front yard, we are actually signaling to the dog that prey might be nearby.

If you constantly appear to be looking out for things the dog might go after, the dog thinks you are searching for prey.
Use the proper tone of voice. Remain calm. If you call your dog in a loud flustered voice, he’ll misinterpret the communication as something threatening or exciting going on.

The “Psst” Strategy
On the next walk vocalize a quiet “Psst” and see if your dog turns to you. If he does, praise and reward. Dogs are hard-wired to listen for low, rustling sounds that prey might make, so use this to your advantage.

NOTE: Ensure your dog is getting lots of “sniff” time. As long as they’re not pulling on the leash, they should be allowed as much of their normal canine pleasures as possible.

Active walking makes for a much more successful walking experience
It’s a long-held, and odd belief, that a dog should work to please us, just for the sake of pleasing us, with no tangible reward. Why should they? It’s not how they view the relationship. In my experience dogs are motivated by two things, food and fun. If you can creatively combine the two, you’ve got one hefty tool for getting your dog to buy into your training program and your preferred walking routine.

Two people on walks generally communicate by talking. A dog’s communication is mostly through eye contact and touch. They are looking for more than time to zone out and contemplate the state of the world. Walking is probably the most exciting gig going in their lives so make it fun for them or they’ll find their own fun (rabbits to pursue, other dogs to challenge, cyclists to chase…you get the picture).

Use the walk to engage with your dog in a fun and active way
Use the time for training opportunities with a nice reward for proper compliance. Ask your dog for a sit as you reach each curb. Allow him to move six feet away and then recall him for a nice reward of food or praise. Make eye contact with him from time to time.

Give him a sniff challenge if you’re fast. Hide a treat under some bushes and ask him to go find it.

Consider where you take your dog for a walk, including the time of day. Most prey animals are active at dusk and dawn. Tracks are freshest and most distracting in the morning.

Vary the walking route
Dog’s get bored of the same route and then seek out some fun and entertainment of their own. If the route is unfamiliar they’ll be more likely to stay closer to you for reassurance.

Mark the moment your dog orients to you first, when he or she spots prey. It’s the defining proof of effective training and a solidly forged partnership.

THE DOG BLOG is a great resource for tips on training and canine well-being. Got questions or a topic in mind? Let me know via the comments box. I would love to hear from you.

Additional Resources:

1) Chase! Managing Your Dog’s Predatory Instincts, by Clarissa von Reinhardt